collaborations with cocoon and cocoon

Since 2023, Emi has been collaborating with a small English fashion label, Cocoon and Cocoon. She creates a few slow-fashion garments for this project each season, which have been showcased at their pop-up shops in Paris, Shanghai, and Tokyo.

AW 2024, Boro dress and Suku jacket for

Emi has created two pieces: a boro Dress and a suku Jacket. The boro dress is inspired by the traditional Japanese boro technique of mending, which transforms necessity into beauty. Historically, original boro pieces were patched with many layers of fabric and stitching over years, born out of poverty and scarcity of materials—there was no choice but to repair and reuse.

For her interpretation, Emi constructed patchworks using a variety of vintage, antique, and handwoven fabrics from her own collection. She combined machine sewing with added hand-stitching details, resulting in a contemporary yet deeply respectful homage to the boro tradition. The outcome is a strikingly beautiful dress that carries both history and artistry in every stitch.

The Suku Jacket is crafted from special layered fabrics, combining vintage French textiles, English wool fleece, and Japanese kibiso yarn as the main material. It is further decorated with organic cotton, adding both texture and detail.

Each piece is unique, as every garment is handmade in Emi's small team in England, resulting in subtle variations that highlight the individuality of artisanal craftsmanship.

SS 2024, kibiso collection

Emi has created a dress and a pullover for her Kibiso Collection.

Kibiso is one of her favorite materials, first discovered during her textile research in 2010. While studying at university in London, she returned to Japan to explore the entire silk-making process. Traditionally, since the Edo period, each stage of silk production was carried out by different specialists to complete a single piece.

During her research, Emi visited a silk farm where silkworms are raised, a mawata fleece studio where silk cocoons are stretched into square fleece, and a family-run silk yarn mill to learn how silk threads are spun from cocoons. Mawata is renowned for its high quality and warmth, often used for padding in jackets and futons.

At the mill, Emi noticed bundles of kibiso yarn tucked away in a corner. The mill owner explained that kibiso is made from the outermost layer of the cocoon, which is coarse and unsuitable for fine silk. Historically, this part was discarded or repurposed to make paper. Emi was captivated by its rough texture and the story behind it. Since then, the mill owner has collected kibiso yarn and sent it to her, enabling her to incorporate this unique material into her work.

Kibiso is coarse and stiff at first, but it gradually softens over time.

AW 2025

SS 2026, Flax collection

The Ama, Flax Collection, a celebration of sustainable craft, natural beauty, and cross-cultural artistry. "flax and linen" is Ama in Japanese.

Over the past five years, Emi has cultivated flax from seed across several projects in England. Each spring, she prepares the soil and sows the seeds. By summer, the flax reaches nearly a metre in height, adorned with delicate blue and purple flowers. The harvest takes place in September, marking the beginning of a transformation from plant to fibre.

At one of weaving studio where Emi leads the flax project with a deep commitment to zero waste. During the hand-spinning process, short flax fibres—unsuitable for spinning—naturally emerge. Rather than discarding them, Emi has created a unique felting technique to repurpose these fibres, creating a new textile entirely handmade in England.

This collection highlights:

• Homegrown British flax fibre felting

• European linen fabrics

• Traditional Japanese Indigo Dyeing This collection highlights the artistry of Murakumo Shibori—a traditional Japanese dyeing technique inspired by the poetic image of “random clouds” (murakumo in Japanese). Each garment has been dyed by hand in England, ensuring that every pattern is unique. The organic variations in tone and form reflect the spirit of impermanence and individuality, making each piece a one-of-a-kind expression of craftsmanship.

We invite you to imagine the flax fields in bloom beneath a Murakumo sky—an ethereal blend of nature and craft.

This small collection features three signature pieces: the Aizome Jacket, the Tsugi Dress, and the Nettle Trousers.

The Aizome Jacket is crafted from a combination of carefully selected fabrics, with each panel made from a different material. Handwoven kibiso silk and vintage linen are among the key textiles, creating a rich interplay of textures. When worn, the jacket reveals a beautiful, subtle fullness between the panels.

The Tsugi Dress is a patchwork composition of diverse fabrics, including kibiso, vintage textiles, and an organic, heavyweight cotton used for the skirt. The result is a garment that balances structure, softness, and artisanal detail.

The Nettle Trousers begin with vintage linen–cotton fabric, which is first embellished with handspun nettle yarn. This decorative process adds depth and character before the fabric is transformed into the final trouser silhouette.